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April 14, 2021 3 min read
Every Lash Artist's biggest nightmare... a client comes back for an infill and complains about poor retention. You may look at the client with only 30% of their lash extensions left on their lash line and wonder did the clients look after their lashes correctly? In fact, the lash technician is in charge of every client's retention, it all comes down to technique.
To most lash technicians it may be an obvious thing, however many techs get into their own routine and ignore steps or don't pay a lot of attention to it following them. But here is why steps much be followed the same each time. In order for the lash extensions to last, natural lashes must be free of any oils, makeup and dust. Sure, spotting mascara is easy enough but you cannot tell if a client has used transparent products like serum around their eyes that morning. Products which counteract the glue from bonding with the extension and natural lash are invisible - so a lash tech must be very thorough when cleaning the lashes.
Using Lash Shampoo to break down oils, makeup residue and dirt on each lash is paramount. This foam cleanser will clean the lashes from top to bottom preparing them for the next steps. You can also use a liquid Cleanser to ensure for a deeper clean.
As the cleanser removes all oils and moisture from the natural lashes, it is important to introduce moisture back into the hair follicle. After all, it's only the impurities we want to get rid of. Primer will moisturise the natural lashes preparing them for the perfect application.
You application is probably the most important step. This step is crucial for good retention. One of the biggest issues during application among lash techs is either a slow attachment (the glue is already half dry by the time it gets placed on the natural lash) or a lack of confidence with application (shaky hands). In order to achieve great retention, lash extensions must be stuck on the natural lashes in a fast and steady motion with confidence. Of course, this can only be achieved with practice and experience, so do not panic or give up. There are slower drying Glues to choose from if you're not as fast enough just yet. The more you try, the better you'll get.
Grabbing a little bit more lash adhesive isn't something to be afraid of. Many lash technicians believe it will lead to 'stickies'. That is correct, too much glue makes you lash set look messy and may lead to stickies which are uncomfortable and unsafe for natural lashes. However, grabbing too little glue can also have impact on retention. The attachment area should be at at least 2-3mm. When dipping the lash extension into the glue, the layer of glue on the extension should not be too thin, seeing a shiny little bulb of glue at the end of the extension is a good thing.
Glue for lash extensions is a mixture of different ingredients. These ingredients need to be reincorporated each time you're ready to use your glue. It is important the glue behaves the same way each time you apply lashes, it needs to be consistent. Using the Glue Shaker the lash glue will be mixed thoroughly every single time so you can rely on its consistency.
Do not forget to keep your glue nozzle clean, using Nozzle Wipes any excess glue accumulated around the nozzle will be cleaned off and you wont see any cured glue blocking the nozzle in the future.. Keeping your bottle tightly closes when not in use is important as you do not want oxygen to cure your glue. Store it away from direct sunlight, sources of heat and humid places. The best way to store your glue is in a special Airtight Container and change it every 30 days.
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